Yu's footprint

I have been back from Ailao Mountain for three weeks. Life returned to be regular again. Class, test, dormitory, school bus… everything is so familiar but mechanical, I know I’ve already begun to miss the scene when sunlight penetrating the primitive forests, when raindrop kissing the tranquil pond, when the tinkle of bells ringing on Ancient Tea-Horse Caravan Commercial Road. They all belong to Ailao Mountain, belong to a pure space inside of me.

1.Ancient Tea-Horse Caravan Commercial Road

I tried to imagine the scene when hundreds of caravans moving on the same road just under my feet. I wonder how many horses once stepped on the green lichen, how many businessmen once rested under the shadow of trees, how many stories once happened on the narrow slabs, how the bells once sang through the morning sunshine.


The Ancient Tea-Horse Caravan Commercial Road was an important trade route in Chinese history. It was orginated from Tang Dynasty, and arrived to its peak in Ming and Qing Dynasty. It connected Tibet and Sichuan, mainly transported tea by caravans and horses. It was never an easy road. Slippery slates, rough surface, thick forests, zigzag way. Many times I nearly fell down when I walked on this tough road. Diligent Chinese in ancient times opened up such a rugged journey, they established and kept on a legend.

A stream is the loyal and constant companion of Ancient Tea-Horse Caravan Commercial Road. It just flowed there peacefully for thousands of years. Standing by the crude wooden “bridge”, I could almost touch the trace of history. I found some special stones nearby the road, on which there are holes as big as man’s fist. It is said these hollow stones were made by horses’ hooves. They are the best testimony of the hustle and bustle time.

2.Primitive Forests

When I realized I had been surrouded by huge primitive trees, it was too late. The strong green smell “stang” me and made me got a “pain of freshness”. My spirit was raised immediately, and a great cheerful joy filled my heart at once.



Why those old and powerful trunks and root always kept silent? They must have a lot to tell. They live in such a huge world, they have witnessed times change, but they just stood there quietly, sticked on the earth and embraced the sky. Nature always teaches us something, every piece of leaf is full of wisdom. They are always humble, always accept everything.



The view on the top of the mountain is definetly gorgeous. When I climbed on a slope covered by grass and short plants, I was conquered. White fog moving towards me and totally devoured me. It’s hard to describe that very moment by any words. Only when you are obsessed by the mysterious power of nature and become a part of it, you will understand that feeling.

3.Waterfall, torrent and wooden path



Shimenxia is the most spectacular part of Ailao Mountain. It is a valley with elegant waterful as its ornament, with vivacious torrent as its escort, with tranquil pond as its phantom, and with delicate wooden path as the only method to approch its fantasy.


Walking on the narrow woonden steps is totally a new experience for me. The wet surface is very smooth, some parts I can only placing my hands on the huge rock beside the way for support. But this is indeed very exciting. It is a Natural Oxygen Bar, another Shangrila on the earth.

In the rigid and contaminated city life, I know I will often recall the moisture upon that unmixed world, so that I can regain peaceful smile on my lips.

Green paddy dancing in the afternoon sunshine, short plantain trees standing quietly along the streets, flourishing bamboos bending to kiss the stream, Huayao Dai women wearing beautiful ethnic costume smiling in the field. The hamonious scene occupied my mind, and appeared in my dream at the first night I returned from Jiasa. I know I cannot forget that place.

Jiasa is a small town in Xinping County, Yunnan Province. ‘Jiasa’ in Dai language means the street near the beach. Yuanjiang River flows beside the town and brought it fertile land and warm weather. Jiasa is famous for its special minorty group, Huayao Dai. It is a branch of Dai People, and keeps its own features. Huayao Dai People don’t live in the bamboo buildings as Dai People do, they live in a speicla kind of cottage called 土掌房(house made of soil). Women wear tattoos on their arms, and they like chewing pinang to dye their teeth black. Tattoos and black teeth are the simble of beauty in traditional Huayao Dai women’s eyes.

We were so lucky that we went to Jiasa at the best time of a year. In spring, the climate is mild, all the crops in the fields light up the town. Everything is green: fields, mountains, streams, trees, the ornaments of Huayao Dai girl’s costume, even the color of wind! There’s a sugar factory in the town, sometimes the wind brings sweet smell to every corner of the street. The air is full of frangrance, and the feeling of fresh green penetrates our head and mind.

We arrived Jiasa before the sun set down. The green smell suddenly devoured us, and drove away all the tire of long journey. After a wonderful dinner in a restaurant of Dai flavor nearby the road, we started our adventure of this green town.

The evening of Jiasa is amazing. Motorcycle is the major transport in the town, lads of Huayao Dai often have motor races on the road. They make up a special scene of Jiasa, which represents the vigor of this small town. Jiasa girls wear colorful dresses, with exaggerated headgears, smiling friendly to the strangers. Cold drink store is a part of Jiasa people’s life. The stores are usually very small, but they strech their space to the pavement. Most of the cold drink shops and cafes offer tables and chairs on the street, which provides a direct way for the visitors from different places to get involved in the local life.

Flower Street is a different street in Jiasa. Old-fashoined houses along the road, newly planted willows waving in the wind, tranquil pond murmured with underground spring, delicate statues built as decorations. It took more than 12 million yuan to build this street, but what we saw was like a destructive place. Houses were made for shops and stores, but almost all of them were empty. Some sports facilities near the street were built for local people, but we couldn’t even find a soul. A place which meant to be booming and prosperous, which meant to attract visitors with flourish business, which meant to be an entertaiment place for local people, was as quiet as any other road in countryside. We chatted with the owner of a handwork store on the Flower Street. He told us the rent for the shop was quite cheap, but the business was always in a tough situation. No visitors, no business opportunities. He prepared to rent or sell his shop, cos there seems no hope in the future. His words made me sad, as the goods in his shop were really attractive. Huayao Dai’s costume, colorful paintings on the stones, simple pottery pot and other local handicraft. I picked a bracelet and a painted stone, they had fair price. The shop owner was talented, he painted the stones and those kettles by himself and provided a good bargain. He sent us to the door, from his hospitality I knew we were one of the small amount of buyers of his pretty stuff.

This was an embarrassed and sad situation. The government of Jiasa kept a good purpose but got a failed result. They tried to imitate Lijiang, with shops and stream along the street to attractive visitors. But Lijiang gained enormous success, while Flower Street was proved to be a waste of money and resources. Jiasa should have its own way to develop its tourism. The special culture of Huayao Dai, Ailao Mountain’s bounterous plant and animal resources, the gorgeous view of Yuanjiang River and the boundless green in spring are all the highlights of Jiasa. A Flower Street means nothing. It cannot bring affluence, it cannot catch attention of travelers.

When sitting outside of a cold drink shop at the deep night of Jiasa, I felt sorry for this small town. It owns so much great potentialities. It has special ethnic culture, distinguished scenery, outstanding position in the ancieny history, but not many people know it. Jiasa neendn’t imitation. What Jiasa really needs is to be aware of its unique beauty, and propagates them.

This hidden green town should be found.

Waking up at 7am, suddenly couldn’t remembre where I was. Looking around ---- strange green walls. Looking above ---- broken dim light. Looking down ---- a dead spider. Spider!!! I should make preparation to scream. But a scene sunndely occurred to me. Last night after 5-minute screeching and shivering I finally used my bottle to drive a spider away from my bed and sent it to hell. That was my proudest thing. I killed a spider! I killed my hatest stuff! Wait wait!! Once there was a spider on my bed? What!?!? Where the hell was I?

At that decisive moment, I heared the cockcrow. Oh that’s it! I’m in the countryside! In a cottage on the top of the mountain! Jesus! When the door of memory was opened, everything flooded back violently. I remembered why I was here at such an early hour at once. I was going to watch the sunrise! Thank God I only wasted 10 minutes to recall. I rushed ouside of the cottage. It was 7:10 on Saturday morning. What I saw at first was all the mountains surrounded me were covered by the golden beautiful sunshine. Not too bad. I only missed for an hour.

Western Hill is not the best place to watch the sunrise, as it is not a high mountain, only 2,511m. But it is indeed the nearest place of Kunming to watch the sunrise. It is only 15km away from the downtown. The place I lived on the mountain was a village called Maomao Qing. The farmers in the village changed their cottages into homely hostel and offered country food. No TV in the room, no telephone or any other eletronic stuff. Your only companion is the cold wind from the mountain and the deep smell of trees. Though missing the sunrise is a kind of embarrassment or pity, I still find the time I spent there was a great pleasure.

This kind of farm tourism is very popular nowadays. Home stay with farming family in the countryside, trace back to the primitive life, close to the real nature, and release oneself thoroughly. The host and the hostess are alwayls smiling. They will tell you what is the best place to watch sunrise (damn), and remind you again and again not to go outside at night. If you spend 107 yuan there, they will only charge you 100. The dogs in the countryside are never timid and unhappy. They will rush towards you as soon as you meet and become your close friends at once.

This kind of tourism called enjoy farmers’ happiness. If you come to china and want to experience rustic life, just try it. But don’t miss the sunrise.

Sitting right on the top of the pyramid, looking at the camels passing through the golden desert, talking with Moses in meditation, and trying to catch the Pharaoh’s whispering. This was often appeared in my dream. Under the sky of Egypt, I never doubt it will be the best place to understand the truth of life and death.

But when I was standing at the foot of the grassy pyramid several days ago, under the dazzling sun and the sky of Huize, what I heared was only the harsh cry of donkeys and the clamorous sound from human beings.

The grassy pyramid should have been a glamorous place. The natural shape of the hill is just like a pyramid, but all the faces of it is covered with grass. It is indeed the most spectacular hill in the Sea. Sea is the name of a small village in Huize, in which located hundreds of hills covered with verdant grass. And Sea in the language of Yi nationality means Step. The grassy pyramid is the best explanation of Sea. Standing at the foot of the grassy pyramid, you’ll realize you are facing with long steps lead to heaven.

I arrived there in a sunny afternoon. The man who drove me there told me I was at an elevation of 3500 meters. But the height didn’t scared human beings. There were about 60 cars parking along the hills. Everywhere, on the grass, near the brook, by the hills, in the yurts, around the barbecue stalls, are filled with flocks of visitors. It’s the national holiday, it’s not strange that people from everywhere are flushing outdoor. But the scene streching before my eyes still gave me a big surprise. The strong smell of roast lamb filled the air, litter is spreaded all over the place, children were running and screaming, a series of stereo outside of a yurt playing vulgar songs as loud as possible… I just stood there, confused and perplexed.

I still decided to climb on the grassy pyramid, though I’d begun to doubt it was the step to heaven. It was a tough long way, in the burning afternoon sunshine, I lay on the top at last. There was almost nobody on the top, I finally got rid of the crowd. Streched my arms and legs, watched the cloud kissing the blue sky silently, felt the soft grass under my body, and then closed my eyes. I suddenly understood the meaning of the pyramid. Every four sides of the pyramid is triangle, which is the most constant shape and structure in the world. In ancient Egypt, the pyramids contained the dream and ambition of Pharaoh, the mission and loyalty of Moses, and the wish and longing of Egyptians. Also, Tang Jiyao, the former chief commander of Yunnan, was born in Huize, just near the grassy marshland. He led Yunnan’s uprisings and completed the task of recovering. And in Chinese long history, some famous kings like king of Nanzhao, king of Yelang, left their footprints in this place.

Like its constant shape, pyramid represented the constant of a nation. When I looked down from the hill again, I saw people dancing in a circle, dogs running along the stream, local shepered woman selling potatos to the passers-by, and ship eating grass inside of the fence, I felt calm and pleasant. Only the prosperous and flourishing scenery is the best of all.

There’re thousands of times I want to go away and leave this life behind. There’re thousands of times I want to start revival on a totally different road. There’re thousands of times I want to move from one place to another to abandon the hypocritical society...That is what Chris thought about. So did I.

Reality is just like a terrible huge rift. So many cuts and wounds are contained in it. One day you may realize all things you hold tightly in your fist are not real. When you wake up in the morning, you may suddenly have no idea what you really want and what you actually get. You may forget what’s the meaning of this life you’ve lived for so many years. So you chose to leave. A huge backpack but with few money, a strong heart but has a little hope, a lot of people met during the journey but always walking alone. That was the way of your life. You called yourself a Supertramp.

You tried to find the truth of life. Closed to the wild nature, kept a clear destination in your mind, bravely got away from every companion on your road, and at last hided yourself into a freezing space. Chris, have you found the answer?

“Happiness only real when shared.” This was what you wrote by the end of your life. Life itself is an endless mystery, the meaning of it is love and happiness. You used your brief life to understand that.

Travel or tramp is not a way to escape. Though there’re so many disappointment in the life, there’re also so many things to treasure. Like family, like neighbors around, like the love from God. Every time when I want to go somewhere alone to escape from the gloomy reality, I know I’ll remember Chris.

I cannot express how much this film means to me, I only know each time when Chris’s weak smile appeared by the end of the movie, I had a strong wish to cry. Some people don’t really understand why he chose such a lonely life in the wild, but I do. Actually I feel this movie is made for a solitary group of people in this world, I am also one of them.

You really need to watch it: Into The Wild.